Tuesday 25th May
Montauban to St Nicholas de le GraveWe didn’t find Montauban very exciting but did spend a couple of minutes in Notre Dame, the cathedral. It was only built in the 1700s so positively modern compared to most we have seen. The most interesting things in it were the enormous statues of Mathew, Mark, Luke and John just inside as you enter, which looked ancient enough to be from Roman times. In fact they were also made in the 1700s for the roof top but the stone was so porous they had been pitted dreadfully by the weather. There are now some rather attractive newer ones on the roof.
Kiwi flowers
A troop of Royal Hussars and their vehicles (Cherry pickers!) and thanks to Sarah for the confirmation!
Late in the afternoon we reached the point where the Tarn joins the Garonne and to our amazement we were back at the restaurant/hotel Felix where we had recovered in great comfort on one miserable, cold and wet evening at the back end of October last year.
It has been very hot all day so the shade provided by the trees along the canal are a welcome relief from the blazing sun.
Alec cooling his feet in the Canal du Midi
Montauban to St Nicholas de le GraveWe didn’t find Montauban very exciting but did spend a couple of minutes in Notre Dame, the cathedral. It was only built in the 1700s so positively modern compared to most we have seen. The most interesting things in it were the enormous statues of Mathew, Mark, Luke and John just inside as you enter, which looked ancient enough to be from Roman times. In fact they were also made in the 1700s for the roof top but the stone was so porous they had been pitted dreadfully by the weather. There are now some rather attractive newer ones on the roof.
We are almost at the point where the Tarn meets the Garonne which we cycled down last October in some fairly inhospitable weather. So to avoid retracing our steps we stick like limpets to the Tarn. It is very pretty and little roads seem to follow it on either side which makes it very pleasant. As we left Montauban we stopped to buy lunch, stamps and to consult the map and were joined by a couple of locals on bikes. After telling them our life stories (they did ask!) one went into town and the other insisted on escorting us to the point where we’d meet the Tarn again. As with all of these enthusiasts, they firstly are carrying no luggage and secondly they feel the need to show off to two people who ‘claim’ to have been cycling for 8 months. Consequently they set off through the traffic like Lance Armstrong occasionally casting a glance over their shoulder to check that we are suitably impressed and not so close as to make the pace seem normal. This man was no exception and by the time he waved us goodbye we couldn’t go another yard without a gulp of water and a rest. Mind you it’s as well he showed us the route as it wasn’t straightforward.
We have spent a lot of time on this trip peering into churches and have always been on the lookout for any Anglican ones where at least we would know how to behave. Quite unexpectedly we suddenly pass the ‘Temple Protestant’
We have spent a lot of time on this trip peering into churches and have always been on the lookout for any Anglican ones where at least we would know how to behave. Quite unexpectedly we suddenly pass the ‘Temple Protestant’
The Protestant church - locked of course!
And if Canon Ian is still reading this, we really are still trying to go to church!
We stopped by a wood where the birdsong was particularly lovely and a nightingale very obligingly sang from an exposed perch in the wood. We were able to finally see one, and to listen to the song which is what we have heard on many occasions all up the cycle routes. Alec was just about to record it when a microlight decided to circle overhead. Was it you, Mike?!
As the rivers are so large they don’t have nice sloping grassy banks to sit on and have a picnic but steep banks usually covered in fierce vegetation.
The Tarn is no exception so when we found a place where a hole had been pushed through the vegetation and a load of builder’s rubble deposited it seemed not the ideal place but at least ‘a place’ where we could have a picnic and see the river. It was a typical French scene with a chateau to compliment it.
We are now in cherry and kiwi country. The last time we were here the kiwis were being harvested, now the trees have been pruned, netted and are covered in blossom; so much has happened since we’ve been away!
Rows of kiwis
We stopped by a wood where the birdsong was particularly lovely and a nightingale very obligingly sang from an exposed perch in the wood. We were able to finally see one, and to listen to the song which is what we have heard on many occasions all up the cycle routes. Alec was just about to record it when a microlight decided to circle overhead. Was it you, Mike?!
As the rivers are so large they don’t have nice sloping grassy banks to sit on and have a picnic but steep banks usually covered in fierce vegetation.
The Tarn is no exception so when we found a place where a hole had been pushed through the vegetation and a load of builder’s rubble deposited it seemed not the ideal place but at least ‘a place’ where we could have a picnic and see the river. It was a typical French scene with a chateau to compliment it.
We are now in cherry and kiwi country. The last time we were here the kiwis were being harvested, now the trees have been pruned, netted and are covered in blossom; so much has happened since we’ve been away!
Rows of kiwis
Kiwi flowers
Cherries are in huge orchards and along the roadside – very tempting as they glisten like trees laden with rubies but there is always a sign saying ‘cerise privé – KEEP OFF’ and someone watching usually with a fierce dog – very frustrating! It’s amazing we expected them to have huge grabbing machines as they do for the grape harvest but they really do seem to pick them by hand.
A troop of Royal Hussars and their vehicles (Cherry pickers!) and thanks to Sarah for the confirmation!
Late in the afternoon we reached the point where the Tarn joins the Garonne and to our amazement we were back at the restaurant/hotel Felix where we had recovered in great comfort on one miserable, cold and wet evening at the back end of October last year.
It has been very hot all day so the shade provided by the trees along the canal are a welcome relief from the blazing sun.
Alec cooling his feet in the Canal du Midi
There are still no canal barges and boats to be seen so presumably late May is still regarded as very early in the season.
Still keen to ring the changes we stayed in St Nicholas de la Grave which is a very pretty village on the southern bank of the canal. ‘Au Chateau’ is absolutely perfect and we had a swim and Kathryn the owner kindly cooked us a delicious dinner as the local restaurant was closed.
Still keen to ring the changes we stayed in St Nicholas de la Grave which is a very pretty village on the southern bank of the canal. ‘Au Chateau’ is absolutely perfect and we had a swim and Kathryn the owner kindly cooked us a delicious dinner as the local restaurant was closed.
House rabbit - not on the menu.
It was very humid and there were rumbles of thunder in the distance. We watched the storm from the terrace and also heard what sounded like gunfire. This Kathryn explained was the farmers. The crops here are very susceptible to hail which can wipe out an entire harvest of kiwi, cherries or plums in a matter of minutes. Hence they shroud the trees in a sort of white muslin, and fire chemicals out of canons into the air which disrupts and disperses the clouds in a physically visible manner. It must cost them a fortune but there again if the alternative is losing your entire year’s income it’s something I suppose they have to do. Must drive the neighbours crazy!!
Clouds being dispersed by chemical means! The white line is a sort of chemical reaction.
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