Gaillac to Rabastens - 2 days

Saturday 23rd May.
Gaillac - Rabastens.Breakfast had been laid outside for us as it was another glorious day. Madame came to join us for coffee which was very good for our French, and we had a good chat. They really are the nicest couple and we were very sad to leave; it was the sort of place that needs two or even three days just to soak up the atmosphere.

Breakfast doesn't get much better than this!

But onwards and upwards towards the UK, but first stop back to the Leclerc where amongst other things we were fascinated to find a ‘milk machine’ where people brought their own receptacle and filled it with milk – amazing and they had a cow beside it to prove it was the genuine article. Imagine that outside Tesco in Dorchester!!


Milk machines

                                                                                                   People queuing for the Milk machine

So eventually we were under way and yet again we passed through the most beautiful countryside. Each day we have thought that it cannot become any prettier but the area around the Tarn is very varied. Today we were mainly on the plain alongside the river, surrounded by Gaillac vines, attractive villages and rather impressive small chateaux.

We had been told to visit Lisle-sur-Tarn as it is very pretty and was built in the time of the Cathares Crusades (Simon de Montfort who later gave it all to his brother) It is one of the many Bastide towns in the region built around a central square where all commerce and meetings went on so they could protect themselves from attack. This central square is enormous with lovely old cloisters all around it.

Lisle-sur-Tarn

The town was hosting an exhibition of local artisan’s work which was fun. Under every archway was either a metal worker, muralist, musical instrument maker (don’t know what they are called) lead gutter makers, and lots of wood carvers and cabinet makers amongst other trades people.


The painter.





Inlaid boxes













                                                                                                         Musical instruments in kit form!
As we had time on our hands we decided to spend a leisurely hour or so looking at them all. No one else was around but the square was all set up for a big town party and salsa dancing to night which would have been fun to have seen but possibly not to join in!

By about 3 in the afternoon we thought we’d better get going in case our host at the B&B was waiting, so headed off to Rabastens and then up the 5k hill (well to be honest up and then down) to their house. The final 300yds to the house is up it’s own drive through a wood of tall old trees and at the end the most delightful huge mansion which looks as though it has been there forever but in fact was only reconstructed after a fire by the present owners.

Hence it is known as Le Phenix (http://www.lephenixfrance.com/) We were greeted by a chocolate brown Labrador who had been left on guard and in charge and a note stuck to the front door saying back at 16.30. As it was only 16.40 we made ourselves comfortable and after an exhausting day fell asleep on the grass.
Tim, our host is an inspired chef so we had the most delicious dinner with another couple who were also staying. They didn’t speak a word of English so we had to concentrate pretty hard to keep conversation flowing. As you know Alec and I are not known for long silences so every time there was an awkward one, we ploughed on in our best franglais and much arm waving. They were a bit amazed I think by our enthusiasm to talk to them so much. Fortunately we had all seen the Artisan’s works this afternoon so that helped and Tim gave help when they were at a loss to understand what we were on about!
Just before dinner Lulu texted saying her flight had been canceled which was a real blow as we were so looking forward to seeing her so we drowned our sorrows and fell into bed very well wined and dined a couple of hours later.

Sunday 24th May. A Day off at Le Phenix.
We had a very lazy day, mostly by the pool

The Pool - best place to be today

but we did manage to bike as far as Rabastens to have a better look. It is yet another pretty town and the Church of Notre Dame which began life in the 13C was perfectly beautiful. The paintings on the walls of the nave date right back to the end of the 13C and depict the life of Christ. They were quite simply executed but had been painted still using the local material, woad so they are a beautiful mix of blues and natural reds and oranges.

Inside Notre dame

There are swastika designs on the ceiling but these were put there in 1846 at a time when the symbol was one of energy and life.
Like Albi and in fact every town along the Tarn, Rabastens has a boom across the river and generates it’s own electricity, this works so perfectly that there is hardly a sound from the turbines - very similar to the French wind turbines which also seem to manage to generate energy inoffensively.

Hydro boom at Rabastens

We stopped for some lunch in a bar in Rabastens which looked quite civilised and wasn’t also a betting shop, ordered some Rose and when that arrived, asked for a menu only to be told they weren’t doing food today. Probably explained why no one else was there! So we raided our emergency rations of oranges and chocolate and starved until Tim produced the cheese biscuits before dinner (which Moley the lovely lab enjoyed sharing when our backs were turned!)


Guard dog Mole and house!

Once we got back there was no peace for the wicked (this time Vivi) because 7 y. o. daughter of the house, Amelia wanted to show her everything in the garden from the ducks to the frog spawn to the wild flowers and kittens. Vivi was fine on the even ground but following a 7 y.o skipping across uneven ground made her realise that she isn’t as agile as she used to be! Tim cooked yet another sumptuous dinner and tonight it was a lot more fun as it was just the three of us. Sadly Amelia had been bribed (or should that be tricked) into going to bed.

Some kind of princess

On the principal of ‘what a small world’ Tim and I (Alec) started work at Lloyd’s in 1974 and Tim’s son is at school just up the road from our home. So hope to see lots more of them.
If anyone fancies a very comfortable few days away in beautiful unspoilt countryside (don’t expect to leave having lost any weight) this is your place!