Almeria to San Jose

Sunday 10th January 2010
Almeria –San Jose We were still in a grump on waking especially as on going downstairs for breakfast, they informed us that the café was shut on Sundays. So off we trotted to another café where we had the usual delicious freshly squeezed orange, tostada , which can mean half a baguette toasted, or a whole one depending on where you are, and a cup of coffee. It is extraordinary that in the world of Seville oranges you can only get horribly gluey jam, fish paste or tomato pulp to put on your toast! No marmalade anywhere.
We then biked off to Almeria airport about 10 miles away to collect the car. Sunday is always a good day for biking as no one moves much before midday and there are no lorries. Luckily for us as we were on the dual carriageway again for a fair bit. We crammed the bikes into the car and decided to visit the Cabo de Gata natural park as it is the last wild bit of countryside for some miles on the coast. This turned out to be a real treat. Firstly we came upon a pilgrimage, too late to see the Virgin being carried on her plinth followed by thousands of followers. There were masses of people on horses and in cars all trailing along the side of a beach. We joined in as the horsemen were most impressive looking and we thought we might be going to a day at the races! It was pretty shambolic and we never found the end of the track. The horses were covered in sweat so we looked as they had done a four mile race.






Horses tied to a lamp post outside a bar. They are standing on the pavement - no one seems to be taking the slightest notice and just walk past as if this is completely normal!




Man holding horses







Men on horse!!






The jockeys were leaving them tied to any static object, like street lights or bollards and heading off to restaurants for long lunches. I couldn’t help but think that any of our hunters would have been off with the street light or whatever dragging behind! No sign of a hard hat or anything so sensible but fantastic saddles and tack. The horses are tiny, probably not more than 15hh but several had two handsome men sitting on them. No women riding of course.












Trumpeter Finch - a first!


















Derelict church at Cabo de Gata or at least we assumed it was.

We left that to have a look at Cape Cabo de Gata which followed a tortuous windy track to a dead end at a lighthouse known as the Sirens. This is because in the past many ships were wrecked as the sailors heard the Sirens calling them on to the rocks. In reality they were the monk seals that live there. Sadly we didn’t see any, but whilst stopping by a ruined church we noticed a large flock of Trumpeter Finches on the ground beside us. Sweet little chaps which we have never seen before. We also watched an enormous flock of White Faced Storm Petrels fishing just off the shore, and some Black Wheatears on the rocks, so it was a real treat as all new to us.

Flock of White Faced Storm Petrels - they are like little puffins and dive in and out of the water catching fish.

Another first!

Trumpeter finch.

We had passed a man selling bread out of the back of a van so bought what he said was a large tortilla/quiche. It was as big as a Frisbee and very thick and once opened we discovered it was like a huge sweet doughnut- not at all what we were expecting for our lunch, but washed down with a little sip of fino was most acceptable! A short siesta in the car was then necessary before finding somewhere to sleep for the night. The weather was coming in from the mountains and it was sleeting so I was fairly pleased not to be on bikes. We drove further into the park through stunning mountains to San Jose, a little coastal village, apparently rather smart in the summer. Luckily only 2 places were open so we chose the best deal and have ended up in the most superb Finca on the outskirts. Hotel Cortijo Il Sotillo is fabulous and we are the only 2 here.

Our hotel, doesn't look much but what a find!