Sable d’Ollone to St Cyr en Talmondais.
Wednesday 14th October.
We left Sable D’O heading south as we wanted to look at George Clemenceau’s garden which was designed with the help of his friend Monet (of water lily fame). Clemenceau was President of France in 1919 and signed the Treaty ending France’s war with Germany which made him a very popular man. He was also known is the Tiger for his combative political style. Cinemas and all sorts around here are called ‘The Tiger’ which unless you know your history or have visited the house would probably have remained a complete mystery to us. The house is a small wooden shack (perfect holiday house) with a distinctly unkempt garden but colourful, which is how he and Monet wanted it to look. We skipped the guided tour in French and self tutored ourselves using the English version of the Guide and then had to hang about for 20 minutes for fear that bossy madame on the gate might send us back to do it properly.
As the house is right on the beach and as we were now heading 60k’s inland we dipped our toes into the Atlantic which to our surprise was perfectly acceptable and if there hadn’t been a strong north wind with a chill factor equivalent to the north pole we might even have had a swim.
By now we had spent 3 days cycling along the coast and what was around the next corner was becoming a bit predictable. So we decided to head in land to take in a bit if the Bocage and south Vendee and to call in on Annie Jory who Vivi had met on a walk to celebrate C N-J’s birthday a month ago. After we had passed two office de tourisms – both shut and fearing we may not find anywhere for the night Vivi called a chambre d’hote on the list we had from the day before and were lucky enough to find a farmhouse B and B which also did dinner.
Pedaling inland we passed through Angles where there was a particularly interesting Plantagenet church built in the 1200’s with huge curved arches and fascinating information about Eleanor d’Aquitaine who after 15 years of loveless marriage to the King of France was dumped when he set off on a crusade, picked up with our Prince Richard (later King Lion heart) and married within 2 months. Can’t say life was dull in those days, with thousands of acres changing hands overnight!!
Anyway we eventually made it to the B and B (Maison Neuve at St Cyr) which with the cold headwind was at about the extreme end of our endurance to be greeted by the most charming couple who said that they would be having dinner with us. This was fine for Vivi but struck fear into my heart and a stiff whiskey was called for before joining them. Madame cooked us a feast, all vegetables and all from her own garden. Conversation was no problem as they introduced us to a local aperitif known as Pineau which was sherry like and how it was made requires further research but it might have involved grape leaves – who knows! They managed to answer most of the questions which had been troubling us like – Q. why hadn’t the maize been cut – A. it is grown for popcorn and Q. what was the dead animal on the road – A. not a beaver but a Rat Gondin similar to a musk rat (horrid thing although I’m sure it’s mother loves it)
The next morning we had to do it all again because they joined us for breakfast!
Wednesday 14th October.
We left Sable D’O heading south as we wanted to look at George Clemenceau’s garden which was designed with the help of his friend Monet (of water lily fame). Clemenceau was President of France in 1919 and signed the Treaty ending France’s war with Germany which made him a very popular man. He was also known is the Tiger for his combative political style. Cinemas and all sorts around here are called ‘The Tiger’ which unless you know your history or have visited the house would probably have remained a complete mystery to us. The house is a small wooden shack (perfect holiday house) with a distinctly unkempt garden but colourful, which is how he and Monet wanted it to look. We skipped the guided tour in French and self tutored ourselves using the English version of the Guide and then had to hang about for 20 minutes for fear that bossy madame on the gate might send us back to do it properly.
As the house is right on the beach and as we were now heading 60k’s inland we dipped our toes into the Atlantic which to our surprise was perfectly acceptable and if there hadn’t been a strong north wind with a chill factor equivalent to the north pole we might even have had a swim.
By now we had spent 3 days cycling along the coast and what was around the next corner was becoming a bit predictable. So we decided to head in land to take in a bit if the Bocage and south Vendee and to call in on Annie Jory who Vivi had met on a walk to celebrate C N-J’s birthday a month ago. After we had passed two office de tourisms – both shut and fearing we may not find anywhere for the night Vivi called a chambre d’hote on the list we had from the day before and were lucky enough to find a farmhouse B and B which also did dinner.
Pedaling inland we passed through Angles where there was a particularly interesting Plantagenet church built in the 1200’s with huge curved arches and fascinating information about Eleanor d’Aquitaine who after 15 years of loveless marriage to the King of France was dumped when he set off on a crusade, picked up with our Prince Richard (later King Lion heart) and married within 2 months. Can’t say life was dull in those days, with thousands of acres changing hands overnight!!
Anyway we eventually made it to the B and B (Maison Neuve at St Cyr) which with the cold headwind was at about the extreme end of our endurance to be greeted by the most charming couple who said that they would be having dinner with us. This was fine for Vivi but struck fear into my heart and a stiff whiskey was called for before joining them. Madame cooked us a feast, all vegetables and all from her own garden. Conversation was no problem as they introduced us to a local aperitif known as Pineau which was sherry like and how it was made requires further research but it might have involved grape leaves – who knows! They managed to answer most of the questions which had been troubling us like – Q. why hadn’t the maize been cut – A. it is grown for popcorn and Q. what was the dead animal on the road – A. not a beaver but a Rat Gondin similar to a musk rat (horrid thing although I’m sure it’s mother loves it)
The next morning we had to do it all again because they joined us for breakfast!
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