Thursday, 3 June 2010

Coutras to Baignes-Ste-Radegonde

Tuesday 1st June
Coutras to Baignes-Ste-Radegonde

We were unable to do justice to the enormous breakfast laid out for us, the evidence of the cats was too overpowering! Setting off in mild rain which fortunately soon dried up we were back to the humps and dips of the rivers and streams, mostly following the River Lary – it was exhausting but picturesque as always.


River Lary near Coutras


There aren’t so many vines here in fact compared to what we’ve been seeing there are quite a variety of activities including bloodstock breeding.





One of many mares and foals.




We still see hoopoes and hear crickets and wonder for how much longer this will be possible. We saw a hare today which is unusual as most of them have ended up in a pot long ago, and a house called Les Reynardieres which is presumably the same as Foxwarren or something! The countryside is so enormous that you expect to see lots of deer or other wildlife but there are none at all. In places it is similar to the sandy areas and heathland around Bovington and home.
Once again we hadn’t booked in anywhere so were relying on finding a tourist office – open. There was one in Montguyon (open at 2pm) who were extremely helpful but as they are in Haute Charante which is 5ks south of Charante (another district) they had no idea what lay ahead for us! So it was into an internet bar where we found a B&B. From just south of Montguyon we have struck another Voie Verte which is tarmac and very easy to travel on so the afternoon was an easy ride past countless converted railway stations, vineyards and chateaux





Chateau Magdeleine and it's vines - near Montguyon.



and arrived at the B&B at about 6pm. Madame is a very lovely farmer’s wife who runs the place as a B&B and at the weekend it is an Auberge for parties of up to 50. She seems to work her socks off and when not B&B’ing is in her spectacular garden – almost as good as Pen and Jimmy’s.









Vivi asked all the right questions about her garden so before being shown to our room we were given a tour and Vivi staggered up the stairs with 2 very beautiful roses and lots of ideas for how to redevelop our garden. The French names for flowers are almost identical to the English which makes them a great deal easier to talk about than birds, as they are entirely different. We have managed to learn a few and my favourite is the wren which is a ‘Troglodyte’
We had our usual 2 mile bike ride into the local village for supper which was in a brand new restaurant, and it was packed with locals trying it out so we were lucky to get in. Fortunately it is still light now until 10pm so cycling home is not a problem.

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