Sapri to Praia a Mare

Wednesday 10th February
Sapri to Praia a Mare
They have forecasted 3 more days of cold sleet and storms so we are being lazy again as there is a strong head wind and it is pretty miserable getting soaked for 4-5 hours and then having nowhere to dry off. There are no radiators or baths in this part, we are too far south so they are geared for keeping cool, and the air con really doesn’t do as good a job at warming/drying everything.
We met a German girl at the station who had just been to Sicily and was heading north. We thought she was pretty brave to be doing it on her own but she was well prepared with pepper spray in her pocket. We got on to the train with a lot of difficulty as this one had a bike space but it was about 6 feet up from the platform through a narrow door. At least 6 station officials watched us with interest but not one came to help! So to get our own back we blocked all the doors so no one could get on or off from our carriage! 30 miles later we got off at Praia a Mare where we knew there was a hotel open. It was pelting with rain and everything was locked so we took shelter along the road in a bar. It must sound as though we spend all our time in them, and that would be correct, but of course this is only because they are the only places open between 1-3 pm! A very pretty girl plied us with little bits to eat and rather good wine until our hotel opened again. This kept us all happy as we were the only people around and she was very bored.

Yet another station on our way south down Italy. The roads are just too busy and punctuated with tunnels to make it any fun to cycle along.

I then spent a long time with Guiseppi, the hair dresser, which was very exciting as last time I had my hair cut was in Bordeaux more than 3 months ago. We got on famously after a nervous start as he approached me clutching what looked like a ligature to cut my throat. I was made to hold it tightly around the length I wanted my hair to be so he could get a straight line. So basically we could blame me if it came out crooked. Participation was the name of the game as he would then tap me on the shoulder when I had to hold the hair dryer whilst he fussed about with the brushes. They are amazed by my white hair as it is pretty unique in this part of the world. He told me it was from thinking too much when I was young. Not sure my family would agree! I bounced out ages later with a very good Italian cut.

Happy after her hour with Guissepi - wasn't he the chap who made Pinocchio?

Our charming hotel owner opened up the kitchen just for us and one other table. Delicious as usual, washed down some of his father’s own wine.
We are either out on the bikes or tucked up in bed at the moment as it is the only warm place to be, but they say that the weather will improve soon. It serves us right for being so smug in Spain before Christmas while the U.K had it’s first cold spell. We are running out of books so have to read the map or dictionary or watch T.V which is pretty good rubbish. There is a choice of Italy’s version of Big brother, Strictly come dancing, whatever the singing one is called but being Italy more focus on opera which is fun, and endless shopping channels or game shows. I am sure it should be good for our Italian but doesn’t seem to be making much difference. The local paper reads like a Mario Puzo novel (bodies in suitcases, burned out cars, 9 arrested for extortion to mention but a few), but then perhaps ours do at home too.