Saturday, 20 February 2010

Giardini Naxos to Aci Trezza

Wednesday 17th February
Giardini Naxos to Aci Trezza (Hotel Lachea)
At last, we woke to blazing sunshine; the Med looking like it is meant to so we leapt out of bed with a spring, into the biking clothes (SHORTS) and set off at speed. Actually it wasn’t quite that fast as I had to collect the laundry from the most expensive launderette in Europe and they didn’t open till 10. Three old harridans with moustaches with whom there was no discussion, negotiation or cyclist’s discount. Anyway it was most refreshing to be off again and we had a very enjoyable day biking along the coast towards Acireale. We weren’t quite sure how hilly it would be - in fact not at all at this stage- and we followed the coast along between Fiumefredde and Riposto. The buildings, bridges and walls in this area are made from Etna Lava bricks, so they are particularly black; rather like old city buildings in the U K which have not been cleaned. It was bliss to be on quiet coastal roads with little traffic. There were only a few cars and a horse galloping flat out along the road, with a hatless rider looking very happy. Can’t think how long that horse’s legs will last.
This is the centre of orange growing country and we passed mile upon mile of orchards with rather beautiful old villas in their midst. The road wound through them and it all was most picturesque with Mt Etna always changing in the background.



Etna, always with a sneaky wisp of cloud on top!



No Brimstone, but looking fairly springlike.





We came upon an old fashioned Alimentari in Riposto full of every kind of veg, fruit, bottles, cheese etc where we stocked up for lunch. All the old men in there were wonderfully friendly and we had great fun choosing food and being regaled with questions about our trip. They all think we are barmy but are full of enthusiasm. We then thought we would find a quiet sunny spot to eat this picnic, but this proved difficult. In Italy everything is fenced off, including many of the beaches as they are privately owned so getting off the road is almost impossible. No chance of a quick nip behind a bush as there is always a 10’high fence with a large Alsatian or Doberman behind it. You always have to stop at a cafe, buy a coffee or something, use the ‘facilities’ and start the whole process all over again.
Anyway lunch was finally eaten several hours later as we found we had to climb a cliff towards Acireale. It was one of those curvy coast roads that wind round and round and up and up for miles. The views were stunning but no time to take them in as we were pushing too hard on a road with very little space for us, the school buses and local traffic. Thankfully, once we had reached Acireale it was the main road down to Aci Trezza which is a most attractive fishing village, where we booked in for the night. We took our picnic lunch down to the harbour and sat on the wall as the sun was setting and watched a family have their photographs taken in a most posed and uncomfortable fashion.



Harbour pics where we had our lunch on the sea wall.



















Aci Trezza is also another home of the ‘Cordwainers’ so if my friend Ollie the king Cordwainer is still reading this you had better get your cyclists to start here and take in Cordoba on the way home!!
The coast here is known as the Riviera of the Cyclops due to the three Faraglioni (rock pillars) which stand in the sea just outside the harbour.









Faraglioni rocks and Island
The Odyssey tells us that these were hurled by Polyphemus the Cyclop against Ulysses who had blinded him by thrusting a flaming stake into his ‘only’ eye. Ulysses and his gang then escaped by clinging to the bellies of rams belonging to the Cyclops – and any more you can get from Roald Dahl’s BFG!!!



Old men in the square at Aci Trezza, heaven knows what they are on the noise of shouting, arguing and laughing could be heard all over town!

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