Tuesday, 6 October 2009
Sunday, 4 October 2009
Part of the street where Joan of Arc met King Philip. Also the street where we found a fig tree with ripe figs and tasted quite a few. Hoorah, something for free in France at last!!
Ah - the 12th Station of the Cross at Candes St Martin, ever since I've been looking for No 11 but there's been a lack of churches with the Stations.
Saturday 3rd October 2009.
Saturday 3rd October 2009.
Madame has had a hard life having lost both her husband and son recently, and has the bank chasing her to sell up, but she looked after us very well, did mountains of washing, and when Alec crept down early to try to catch up with some writing of the diary, he couldn’t get a moment’s peace!
We walked up to the Royal Fortress of Chinon and spent a happy couple of hours exploring it. I wish I had done this area in chronological order as we were now back in the early 1100’s . There is major restoration work being carried out to repair the rooms where Joan of Arc met the Dauphin Philip II of France. Of even more interest to us was the fact that Henry II Plantagenet lived and died here AND kept the treasury of England over here so he could keep tabs on what kind of shape England’s finances were in. I can’t imagine how he knew before the days of computers. I had visions of Gordon sitting in the corner of a turret counting the money in the days of his previous job. Of even greater interest to Vivi was the fact that one whole turret – three floors of it, all with ribbed vaulted ceilings was known as the kennels and was where the king kept his packs of hounds. The three floors were identical except one of them had a bread oven – that was where the huntsman slept!! The old town under the castle is very picturesque too with a thriving Saturday market. We didn’t leave until after 1.30 and biked Westwards to Saumer. We followed the Vienne River most of the way before it joined the Loire, so it was an easy ride. Not the most interesting views as the river was hidden from us by a lot of scrub and poplar trees, but it was very peaceful. Candes St Martin and the Abbey at Montsereau were a good spot for lunch. Alec’s collection of photos of the Stations of the Cross is gathering pace, and is almost catching up with his past obsession with finding golf balls,Willie!
The South bank is made up of cliffs dotted with Troglodyte caves. As a child I remember seeing them and was fascinated by the thought of people living in such dark spooky places. Now they seem rather sophisticated with double glazing, museums, wine cellars, and we are even debating whether to stay in a b and b in one tomorrow night.
Saumer is a beautiful city with a colossal Chateau perched above it so we are looking forward to exploring tomorrow.
The countryside is a different here, they grow asparagus and a lot of maize although I don’t know what for as it isn’t harvested yet (or at least they are only just beginning now) and it has turned completely brown and dry. There aren’t many cattle in evidence either so unless all the cows are indoors I can only assume it goes for bio-fuels.
Madame has had a hard life having lost both her husband and son recently, and has the bank chasing her to sell up, but she looked after us very well, did mountains of washing, and when Alec crept down early to try to catch up with some writing of the diary, he couldn’t get a moment’s peace!
We walked up to the Royal Fortress of Chinon and spent a happy couple of hours exploring it. I wish I had done this area in chronological order as we were now back in the early 1100’s . There is major restoration work being carried out to repair the rooms where Joan of Arc met the Dauphin Philip II of France. Of even more interest to us was the fact that Henry II Plantagenet lived and died here AND kept the treasury of England over here so he could keep tabs on what kind of shape England’s finances were in. I can’t imagine how he knew before the days of computers. I had visions of Gordon sitting in the corner of a turret counting the money in the days of his previous job. Of even greater interest to Vivi was the fact that one whole turret – three floors of it, all with ribbed vaulted ceilings was known as the kennels and was where the king kept his packs of hounds. The three floors were identical except one of them had a bread oven – that was where the huntsman slept!! The old town under the castle is very picturesque too with a thriving Saturday market. We didn’t leave until after 1.30 and biked Westwards to Saumer. We followed the Vienne River most of the way before it joined the Loire, so it was an easy ride. Not the most interesting views as the river was hidden from us by a lot of scrub and poplar trees, but it was very peaceful. Candes St Martin and the Abbey at Montsereau were a good spot for lunch. Alec’s collection of photos of the Stations of the Cross is gathering pace, and is almost catching up with his past obsession with finding golf balls,Willie!
The South bank is made up of cliffs dotted with Troglodyte caves. As a child I remember seeing them and was fascinated by the thought of people living in such dark spooky places. Now they seem rather sophisticated with double glazing, museums, wine cellars, and we are even debating whether to stay in a b and b in one tomorrow night.
Saumer is a beautiful city with a colossal Chateau perched above it so we are looking forward to exploring tomorrow.
The countryside is a different here, they grow asparagus and a lot of maize although I don’t know what for as it isn’t harvested yet (or at least they are only just beginning now) and it has turned completely brown and dry. There aren’t many cattle in evidence either so unless all the cows are indoors I can only assume it goes for bio-fuels.
A wander around Chateau Villandry
Friday 2nd October. (Rosie’s birthday!!)
We wandered around Villandry and as usual took in the church. This one, St Stephen’s was in a poor state of repair but like Vouvray it had the 14 stations of the cross so I’ve decided to make a photographic collection counting downwards and today I have the 13th! After that we moved on to the chateau which is quite small – but perfectly formed and really enjoyed it as it was far more like a country house than a museum and had a very interesting history – too long to go into. The gardens re created by M Carvallo, an impoverished Spaniard who got lucky and married an American in about 1900 – Miss Coleman (but we don’t think the English mustard variety) are in the municipal gardening style, lots of topiary and box hedges interspersed with magnificent colours and plants. Everywhere there are avenues of trellis festooned with hanging bunches of grapes and the vegetables have to be seen to be believed with cabbages the size of footballs and all the colours of the rainbow. We didn’t know you could do that!
So we left there collected the bikes and headed west along the Vienne (a tributary of the Loire) and eventually crossed it to have a look at the medieval chateau in Langeais. We didn’t go in but sat on a bench outside reading the guide book and eating a lovely picnic and as it was Friday we allowed ourselves a bottle of wine too.
Interestingly Anne of Brittany who has turned up married to a different king at every chateau we have visited also lived here as wife of Charles VIII aged only 14.
After lunch we re-crossed the river and continued west stopping at 5.15pm to look at the fairytale Chateau at Rigny-Usse. Sadly too late to go in.
So back we went to the river, full of birds golden plover, crested grebe, kingfisher and masses of ducks we’ve never seen before plus the anticipation of perhaps seeing Johnny Depp (see picture of boat) in Chocolat mode (not as Capt Jack Sparrow,) rounding the river bends ahead of us. We finally made it to Chinon by 7pm and found a Chambre d’Hote immediately so almost stress free! (Very steep hills into Chinon)
We wandered around Villandry and as usual took in the church. This one, St Stephen’s was in a poor state of repair but like Vouvray it had the 14 stations of the cross so I’ve decided to make a photographic collection counting downwards and today I have the 13th! After that we moved on to the chateau which is quite small – but perfectly formed and really enjoyed it as it was far more like a country house than a museum and had a very interesting history – too long to go into. The gardens re created by M Carvallo, an impoverished Spaniard who got lucky and married an American in about 1900 – Miss Coleman (but we don’t think the English mustard variety) are in the municipal gardening style, lots of topiary and box hedges interspersed with magnificent colours and plants. Everywhere there are avenues of trellis festooned with hanging bunches of grapes and the vegetables have to be seen to be believed with cabbages the size of footballs and all the colours of the rainbow. We didn’t know you could do that!
So we left there collected the bikes and headed west along the Vienne (a tributary of the Loire) and eventually crossed it to have a look at the medieval chateau in Langeais. We didn’t go in but sat on a bench outside reading the guide book and eating a lovely picnic and as it was Friday we allowed ourselves a bottle of wine too.
Interestingly Anne of Brittany who has turned up married to a different king at every chateau we have visited also lived here as wife of Charles VIII aged only 14.
After lunch we re-crossed the river and continued west stopping at 5.15pm to look at the fairytale Chateau at Rigny-Usse. Sadly too late to go in.
So back we went to the river, full of birds golden plover, crested grebe, kingfisher and masses of ducks we’ve never seen before plus the anticipation of perhaps seeing Johnny Depp (see picture of boat) in Chocolat mode (not as Capt Jack Sparrow,) rounding the river bends ahead of us. We finally made it to Chinon by 7pm and found a Chambre d’Hote immediately so almost stress free! (Very steep hills into Chinon)
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